"On n'est pas dans le futurisme, mais dans un drame bourgeois ou un thriller atmosphérique"
Stormrider Surf Stories Indonesia brings together the richest, most diverse collection of surf tales ever published about the world's most wave-blessed archipelago. From 1930s Kuta to today, via the discoveries of iconic waves in the 1970s, adventure, mayhem and mysticism abound. Along the way, shipwrecks, tsunamis, volcanoes, bombs, beatings, malaria and death are all cheated by an intrepid cast of trailblazers and chancers. There are bold, idealistic and tube-blessed characters, as well as heartwarming narratives of love, joy and facecreasing comedy. This anthology charts Indonesia's invasion by surfers and the profound changes surfing brought to the communities it touched - from surf camps and 'surf slums' to the luxury charter boat industry, five-star hotels and the infinite other knock-on effects that continue today. Brought to life with full colour photos and maps, Stormrider Surf Stories Indonesia will entertain, educate and motivate anyone who's ever dreamed the surfer's dream.
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"On n'est pas dans le futurisme, mais dans un drame bourgeois ou un thriller atmosphérique"
L'auteur se glisse en reporter discret au sein de sa propre famille pour en dresser un portrait d'une humanité forte et fragile
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